Showing posts with label Spring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Spring. Show all posts

Friday, July 31, 2026

Eastern Europe 2026: Comana Monastery

After finishing our Lower Daube cruise, we planned a few additional days in Romania.  Our first stop was the Comana Monastery

Comana Monastery, Romania
Danelle found this interesting stop between Giurgiu and Bucharest, originally built in the late 15th century by the legendary Vlad the Impaler.

Comana Monastery, Romania
Vlad was killed on a battlefield near the monastery, so it's speculated that his body may have been buried here.

Comana Monastery, Romania
I enjoyed seeing monks quietly going about their business while we tourists wandered around and gawked.

Comana Monastery, Romania
A headless body which could be that of Vlad Tepes was discovered on the property during archaeological work in the 1970s, but it's unknown if it's actually him.  I'm not sure if DNA testing has been done to try and reach a greater degree of certainty one way or another.

Comana Monastery, Romania
Speaking of unidentified remains, this pit was somewhat jarring to stumble upon.  It houses the remains of over 750 Romanian, German, Bulgarian, and Turkish soldiers who died on the nearby Argeș-Neajlov front in December 1916 during World War I.

Comana Monastery, Romania
The monastery has been restored repeatedly over the centuries, and is in pretty pristine condition today.

Comana Monastery, Romania
I like the juxtaposition of vibrant life and withered death here.  Like the Biblical parable of the seeds that fall on fertile ground versus those that don't.

Comana Monastery, Romania
Headstones and crosses around the monastery also serve to memorialize soldiers who died fighting in the area.

An engaging place, and a fine stop on our drive!

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Sunday, July 26, 2026

Eastern Europe 2026: Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo

Our final afternoon in Bulgaria we took a short drive about 10 miles outside of Ruse to visit a UNESCO World Heritage Site: the Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo.

Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo
Monks and hermits cut churches and cells into the rock alongside the Rusenski Lom river during the 12th century.  It takes a short but steep walk to reach them.

Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo
The site is especially prized for its excellently preserved murals, originally painted in the 14th century.

Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo
According to the UNESCO World Heritage web site, "the frescoes represent a departure from the canons of Byzantine iconography. They show close ties with expressive Hellenistic art and a clear preference for the nude, the landscape, an architectural background in a composition, drama, an emotional atmosphere -- qualities which combine to make an exceptional masterpiece of the Tarnovo school of painting and monumental art."

Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo
I'm not enough of an art historian to appreciate the insight provided by the good folks with UNESCO.  But I am always impressed by the lengths people go to demonstrate their devotion to God.

Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo
The group of mountains where the churches are located has "serious stability problems."  A partial collapse in the early 20th century buried one of the churches, and the murals inside had to be rescued and moved.

Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo
At its peak, the monastery complex is believed to have had around 40 churches.  Frescoes like these have been preserved in only five.

Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo
The isolated location does seem like a perfect place to seek stillness through uninterrupted prayer, a monastic tradition known as hesychasm.

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Sunday, July 19, 2026

Eastern Europe 2026: Vidin and Ruse

Our Lower Danube River cruise made two stops in Bulgaria -- Vidin and Ruse.

Common Pear, Vidin, Bulgaria
We spent most of our time in Vidin visiting the house of a husband and wife to learn how to make a traditional Bulgarian pastry -- Banitsa.  They had a lovely property where they grew crops like pears.

Vidin, Bulgaria
This wheelbarrow had clearly seen a lot of use, but still seemed to have some fight left in it.

Vidin, Bulgaria
As we left the dog across the street let us know it was not unhappy to see us go.

Memorial of Victims in Serbo-Bulgarian War, Vidin, Bulgaria
Returning to the city, we strolled through town taking in monuments like this one to the victims of the 1885 Serbo-Bulgarian War.

Stambol Gate, Vidin, Bulgaria
The road to Constantinople passed through the Stambol Gate of the fortress near the city's central square.

Port Vidin, Bulgaria
The water where we docked at Port Vidin was perfectly calm, reflecting the puffy clouds floating peacefully by.

State Opera, Rousse, Bulgaria
The next day saw us in Ruse, known as "Little Vienna" for its Neo-Baroque architecture like the State Opera House

Ruse Center, Ruse, Bulgaria
If I lived in a city, I'd like to think that I, too, would bike around a lot.  Not even to get specific places, just because biking is relaxing.

Liberty Square, Ruse, Bulgaria
Ruse's Liberty Square is the city's civic hub, surrounded by picturesque buildings, filled with statues and gardens, and anchored by the Monument of Liberty.

Thursday, July 16, 2026

Eastern Europe 2026: Golubac Fortress

The morning after our visit to Belgrade we docked at Golubac Fortress, built at the widest point of the Danube as the river flows into a pass of the Carpathian Mountains.

The fortress today houses an impressive museum with impressive artifacts like Miroslav's Gospel, the oldest surviving manuscript in Serbian Cyrillic dating back to the late 12th century.  The original document is actually housed at the National Museum of Serbia in Belgrade.  The version on display at Golubac is a high-quality facsimile, and I'll confess that it had me fooled.

The fortress features permanent exhibitions that include medieval banners, heraldic emblems, and chivalric displays.

The stone structure rising up straight from the rocky cliffs is definitely imposing.

The fortress' strategic value is obvious, as its position allowed easy control over all roads and waterways connecting the east and the west.

A cannon tower was added when the Ottomans controlled the fortress in the late 15th century.

I love how the fortress rises right from the river.  This six-story tower defended the place.

The courtyard of the fortress does have a more ancient, ruined feel.  I'm not sure why this part has been left in more of its original state, but I dig it.  The sprinkling of 500-year-old cannonballs strewn about is a nice touch.

If the spot where our cruise ship docked is the same place that visiting (or attacking) ships had to dock back in the day, it seems like another solid strategic choice.  You could wreak a lot of destruction on an invading force before they even got to the fortress.

I would love to play a massive game of Capture the Flag here.  Walking around the ramparts and towers was wonderful; running around them seems like it would be an absolute blast.

A little frame-within-a-frame view of the cannon tower.

The cannonballs caught my attention up close, as well.  Not traditional garden decor, but they work here.

I'm just now realizing how many of my shots include cannonballs.  Here they're honestly secondary to the little boat mooring, but they do seem to be pretty intentionally placed here.

I didn't do much "nature" photography on this trip, and I'm not sure this little man-made pond really counts.  But it was at least a bit of greenery.  And it did have a sign warning about the presence of venomous snakes.

The Ottoman influence was a recurring theme throughout trip.  The farther east we traveled, the longer the Ottomans had held sway over the region. Mahmud Pasha, who conquered Golubac Fortress in 1458, also built a bathhouse (or hammam) on the grounds which visitors could also explore.

Golubac was the place on our trip that most exceeded my expectations.  I didn't do much research on the fortress beforehand, expecting fairly nondescript ruins.  The renovations and exhibits really added a lot to the overall experience!

Tuesday, July 14, 2026

Eastern Europe 2026: Belgrade

The next stop on our cruise down the lower Danube was Belgrade, capital of Serbia.  Our only rainy day of the entire trip, and the city's mood seemed to match the weather -- gray.

Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of St. Sava, Belgrade
We took a driving tour of the city and did visit some impressive places, the first being the Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of St. Sava.  The doors to the church were embossed with a traditional prayer to the Holy Spirit in a number of different languages.  What I mistook for Latin is actually Romanian.

Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of St. Sava, Belgrade
The interior is simply stunning.  Mosaics made up of around five million tiles cover more than 161,000 square feet.

Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of St. Sava, Belgrade
The bronze central wheel chandelier is one of the largest and heaviest in the world, with a diameter of nearly 66 feet.

Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of St. Sava, Belgrade
In addition to tour groups, there were a number of worshipers as well.  But I was uncomfortable including any of the people in my photos here, so I waited for a moment when the space appeared empty.  In hindsight, I wish I'd chosen differently.

Carousel, Kalemegdan Fortress, Belgrade
We also visited Kalemegdan Park, an odd mix of ancient fortress, gardens, military equipment, a dinosaur park for kids, and even a carousel.

Coca-Cola Machine, Kalemegdan Fortress, Belgrade
Graffiti was pretty noticeable at all of our stops, but nowhere as much as Belgrade.  This poor Coke machine never stood a chance.

Port of Belgrade Passenger Terminal
Even the welcome sign where our boat docked didn't escape.  The palm trees in the background were admittedly unexpected.

Port of Belgrade Passenger Terminal
The plates mounted on the exterior of this small eatery along the river caught my eye.  I wish I'd made note of its name; Google Maps was surprisingly unhelpful in this effort.

Zemun, Serbia
In the afternoon I joined a bike tour to the district of Zemun.  The skies really opened up when we arrived, and I spent more time protecting my camera than using it.  I did manage to capture some long exposure shots of people walking by this covered alley, of which this is my favorite.

Zemun, Serbia
A small flower shop was the only business open in a small covered commercial area, adding a welcome splash of color to the otherwise somber setting.

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Thursday, July 9, 2026

Eastern Europe 2026: Croatia

After a couple of wonderful days in Budapest, Danelle and I boarded the AmaVerde for a cruise down the Lower Danube.  First stop: Vukovar, Croatia.

Phoenix Monument, Vukovar
We took a guided walking tour of the city in the morning, and saw many unsettling reminders of the area's violent recent history such as the Phoenix Monument -- a bombed-out building left in its ruined condition after the 1991 war with the sole addition being beautiful planters of flowers to remind everyone that new things can rise up from tragedy.

Escape Fast Food and Pizza, Vukovar
World Cup fever was evident in at least one of the local eateries, with columns wrapped in the signature design of the Croatian national team's jersey.

The Heart of Vukovar, Croatia
The Heart of Vukovar symbolizes the city's efforts to emerge from its troubled recent history.

Danube River from Ilok Castle, Croatia
In the afternoon we took a coach to the town of Ilok and toured first Odescalchi Castle, with its strategic view of the Danube... 

Church of Saint John of Capistrano, Croatia
...and the nearby Church of Saint John of Capistrano, a gothic church dating back to 1349 where the Catholic site reportedly came to die.  Our tour guide said that nobody knows where the saint's remains are actually buried, but most suspect that the monks hid them when the Ottomans conquered the area.

Winery Kast, Croatia
Last but not least, the delightful Winery Kast.  The winery was opened by a brother and sister in 2023, and while neither Danelle nor I are big wine drinkers we could both still appreciate the giant copper wine glass in the courtyard.

We made just this single stop in Croatia, but our wonderful tour guide helped us better understand events we only dimly remembered from 30-year-old news reports.  She recounted how she had helped her father smuggle guns into the country as a young girl during the Croatian War of Independence, a reminder on the 250th anniversary of our own independence of the high cost of freedom.

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